One of the many small villages located along the road from Kota Kinabalu to Kinabalu Park, Pekan Nabalu, at roughly 1000m above sea level, has one of the best views of Mount Kinabalu and its surroundings.
Situated roughly one and a half hours by car from Kota Kinabalu, and a mere 15 minutes from the entrance of Kinabalu Park, Pekan Nabalu, which name means mountain town in the Dusun language, is a much frequented pit stop of tour buses on the popular Kinabalu Park tour. From a few small huts in the early days, it now has a few rows of shops selling local foodstuff and produce, as well as handicrafts and souvenirs.
A viewing platform has been built for tourists to better enjoy the magnificent scenery. From here, you not only get a view of the 4095m high Mount Kinabalu, but also a smaller mountain, Gunung Sadok-Sadok, known affectionately as the child of Kinabalu. Kampung Kiau, the village at the foothill of the mountain can also be clearly seen from here.
A must-try at Nabalu are the sweet and juicy pineapples, and the many different types of bananas, from the tiny and sweet Pisang Mas to the reddish Pisang Tembaga. You can either buy the whole pineapple, or if cutting it seems like too much trouble, freshly-cut pineapples are sold at RM2 a packet each. A bunch of Pisang Mas bananas are only sold at RM3.
When in season, the tarap, a relative of the jackfruit, and wild durians, both found only in Borneo, are not to be missed either.
Other local specialties are hill rice, traditionally planted on the hill slopes by the Dusun people, and traditional Dusun delicacies like tuhau (pickled ginger) and bambangan (pickled wild mango). The tuhau and bambangan are either used for cooking, or eaten with rice. Another traditional food sold here, bosou, is fermented fish mixed with rice. This is more for the local tourists than smell-sensitive foreigners, although you are welcome to take a whiff if you dare.
On Thursday mornings, the tamu (morning market) is held here. This could be a good time to visit, depending on whether you are the type of person who likes to browse at local markets, or prefer to avoid the hassle of finding parking.
Many of the handicrafts and souvenirs sold here can also be found in the handicraft markets in Kota Kinabalu, although there is probably more variety of traditional baskets and “I love Sabah” t-shirts here. Bargaining is possible, although unlike in other South East Asian countries, the price is usually not jacked up by much, and even then, it’s only because of the tendency of tourists to ask for discounts. (In the early days of Sabah’s tourism, when the local traders were less wily to the ways of tourists, prices were fixed). More than likely, a discount will be offered even before you ask for one.
Like any good pitstop, there are also a few restaurants serving simple noodle dishes, a convenience store selling bottled water and snacks, and two toilets (50 cents).
Best time to visit
On most days, Mount Kinabalu is clearly visible before 9.30am, with the clouds slowly covering up the mountain after that. (although if your luck is really bad, the mountain might not show its face at all for the whole day). If you are coming from Kota Kinabalu, you should try to make a start before 8am. Nabalu is at its most crowded between 9am to 10am, when all the tour buses usually arrive.
Evening time is less crowded, and Mount Kinabalu usually shows its face again at about 5pm. By this time, most of the shops would have closed for the day. Most Dusuns at Nabalu are Christians, and on Sunday, many of the shops are closed because the owners are at church.
Dangers and Annoyances
Stray dogs are common at Nabalu, although they are usually very docile, and cases of tourists being bitten by dogs are unheard of, so far. Just to be safe, be a good tourist and try not to provoke them. Rabies have been found in dogs in the neighbouring state of Sarawak.
Lost Borneo 